Hasegawa Messerschmitt Bf109G-2, 1/48 scale, Kit JT29

The Kit

This is another of the “golden oldies” in my collection.  I wanted to beef up my Bf109 collection, and I remembered this kit, which I have had since it was first released in the 1990’s. 

I also have AeroMaster 48-384, Augsburg Eagles, Pt. VI, which includes some markings for a G-2 model serving on the Russian Front. 

The marking of a Bf109G-2 flown by Obst. Hermann Graf  on the Russian front in Summer/Fall of 1942

I love AeroMaster decals.  They have never let me down, but all of them are pretty old now.  Great product.  Too bad they went out of business.

The Build

The surprise to me was examining the cockpit parts.  Sorry to say, but the cockpit is only a step or two above the old Otaki kits.  Oh, well.  Full speed ahead.  I added some Eduard seatbelts and called it good.  (Luftwaffe Fighter Seatbelts, 1/48, 48290)  Ultimately I was not thrilled with them.  They are colored with brown paint with the metal being left bare.  The problem is the brown paint is easily wiped away in handling.  My favorites are still Ultracast seats with the belts molded in.

Ultimately, I decided to leave the canopy closed, so the cockpit looks fine.  Careful painting really brought out the details.

The fit of the parts is very good and the surface detail looks right on the money. 

Also, I have been experimenting with Tamiya acrylic paints, and almost any German WWII aircraft makes a good subject.  You need to mix two or more colors to get the RLM color you desire.  I will see if the effort is worth it.  My experience so far is these paints airbrush more easily than any other acrylic I have tried.

I was not able to find a formula for RLM 04 Yellow, but luckily I had some in my Model Master Acryl collection (#4771).  I used this to paint the band around the fuselage rear, the undersides of the wingtips, and the lower forward cowl.

Tamiya Mark Fit Strong works very well with these decals, and all others I have tried it with.  You need to work fast in placing the decal, as the product really softens the decal quickly.  This product really makes the decals conform to the details under them.  It may take an additional application or two on difficult spots, but the results are worth it.  This is a different formula than the regular strength.  See my blog entry in February 2017.

The Hasegawa BF109 kits may have been eclipsed by recent releases, but they are still pretty good.  I enjoyed this build, and I think that the kit still merits some consideration.

I made my own masking from thin strips of Tamiya tape and my own masking compound (Elmer's glue with food coloring.)

I used Tamiya primer from the spray can.  The yellow area is masking tape.  I added a primary coat of Tamiya flat white before I sprayed the yellow color coat.

Decal application is almost done.

Finished Model

 As always, thank you for visiting my blog.  Comments are always welcome.

Airfix P-40B Warhawk, 1/48 scale, Kit A05130

The Kit

Many 1/48 scale modelers were waiting somewhat eagerly for Airfix to release this kit after it was announced.  Prior to this kit entering the market, we had only the ancient P-40B from Monogram (accurate in outline, but lacking in cockpit detail and being cover with the hated - by some - raised panel lines) and the lamentable P-40B/C from Hobby  Craft (which had a very inaccurate outline and not much of a cockpit either).

We were not disappointed with this new Airfix release.  Recessed panel lines, which are lighter than the early “new” Airfix kits,  grace the exterior.  The very detailed cockpit and wheel wheels with canvas covers, very nicely molded landing gear (both extended  mode and retracted), and a radio set in the aft fuselage with an access door that can be left open or closed kept me from thinking of any after market items (aside from the seatbelts).

All P-40’s (at least through the E model, to my knowledge), had a ring gunsight on the engine cowl in front of the cockpit.  This detail is absent in this kit and not shown anywhere on the illustrations or plans.  I do not see how these could have been molded in plastic, so I submit Airfix just saved the modeler the frustration of fooling with this detail.  Maybe in 1/32d scale, but not i/48 scale.  My collection of aftermarket parts includes and old Waldron steel etched set of ring gunsights in 1/48 and 1/32 scale.  I frankly admit that the set in 1/48 scale is simply too small for me to deal with. 

A very complete decal sheet with markings for both a Pearl Harbor based Curtiss P-40B Warhawk and a Flying Tiger Curtiss Hawk 81-A-2. The latter being the same aircraft but painted in RAF colors and turned over the the Chinese Air Force for use by American Volunteer Group. 

I chose the Pearl Harbor markings for one of the first American aircraft to engage the Japanese in WW II.

This is a fine kit and I highly recommend it.

The Build

Tamiya Olive Drab XF-62 and Sky Grey XF-19 were  used for the basic overall colors.  These aircraft were well-maintained and therefore, I did not weather the model very much.  I did use Tamiya Weathering Master Dry Brush Effect colors for exhaust stains on the bottom and aft of the exhaust manifolds as well as metallic effects the gun barrels and pitot tube.

All in all, the build was straight forward.  I only needed some putty where the upper wing joins the fuselage and where the lower wing joins the fuselage in the rear.  And that may have been “builder’s error” and not Airfix’s fault.

The cockpit was installed stock except for some Eduard STEEL seatbelts.

I do not recall using Tamiya Color Acrylic Paint over canopy frames before, but I did here, and will probably do so in the future.  I always carefully clean the canopy with alcohol before applying the masking.  In this case, I was using a combination of Eduard canopy masks (designed for the Hobbycraft P-40B) and Tamiya tape to mask areas not covered by the Eduard masks).  I sprayed several light coats of XF-62 Olive Drab on the canopy parts (which were not attached to the model).  The pleasant surprise came when I removed the masks.  The paint stuck fast to the frame and the tape came away cleanly.  Beautiful job!  I have used a lot of Vallejo Model Air paint, but I have had problems with the Vallejo paint coming up in places with the masking tape.

The antennas are fine E Z Line elastic thread.  I obtained mine on eBay.  Using medium CA, and a bit of patience, the material is easy to work with and is somewhat forgiving of handling accidents, unlike stretched sprue.  And, it never sags.

My often messy and cluttered workbench.  Lots of interior green has been applied.

Many of the small parts have been primed in this photo.  I generally prime with Tamiya "rattle can" primers.

On this kit, I left the clerar parts off until after I painted the model.  Here the underside is about to be painted.

On the left the ejection pin mark can be seen and on the right it is mostly scraped away.  It was one of the fewplaces where an ejection pin mark got in the way.

I have taken to using Mr. Finishing Surfacer to seal up small gaps.  I apply it neatly with a small brush and use lacquer thinner on cotton buds to remove the excess.  A few coats may be required.  The end result is a neat seal and the surrounding detail is not destroyed by sanding.

As always, thank you for visiting my blog.  Comments are always welcome.

North American P-51B Mustang, Tamiya Kit 61042, 1/48 scale

The Kit & Build

 This venerable kit was released in 1995.  Since then it has been released in a number of guises. 

There were no fit issues aside from a minor gap between the top wing panel and the fuselage, which I took care of with Perfect Putty.  And, that fit issue may have been something I created myself.  (See photos below.)

The model is nicely detailed, but you are on your own with seatbelts.

I did not happen to have any pre-made masks available for this kit, so I went with Bare Metal self-adhesive foil.  The foil got the job done, but not as neatly as kabuki tape masks would have.  In the near future, I am going to try Tamiya tape as a mask trimming the tape on the canopy just as one does with Bare Metal foil.

The basic paints used are pictured below.

The kit decals included Captain Don Gentile’s famous “Shangri-La”;  however, I opted for Lifelike Decals “North American P-51 Mustang Pt. 4”, sheet no. 48-048.  They were thinner and more crisply printed than the kit decals.

The gap described above can be seen here.

Working with the Bare Metal foil.

The model has been primed with Tamiya "rattle can" grey surface primer.

The basic paints used.

Historical Information

The Shangri-La post-crash. (Public Domain photo)

Capt. Gentile with the Shagri-Ka.  Notice the yellow tape over the gun ports.  (Public Domain photo)

Shangri-La preparing for a flight.  (Public Domain photo)

The story of Capt. Gentile is fairly well-known.  He flew in the RAF Eagle Squadrons before the United States entered the European war and transferred to the U. S. Army Air Forces when it did.  He had two aerial victories with the RAF, and ran up a total of 19.83 aerial victories with the U. S. Army.  After his last mission, he buzzed the airfield for the benefit of the assembled press people and ended up totaling the “Shangri-La”.  A lesser pilot would have faced a court martial.  Gentile went home and sold war bonds, which was a wiser use of this fine pilot.  Tragically, Capt. Gentile died on January 28, 1951 when he crashed in a P-80 Shooting Star on a routine flight.  He was only 30 years old.  (This information is from Wikipedia.)

 As always, thank you for visiting my blog.  Comments are always welcome.