German A4/V2 Rocket, Revell Germany, 1/72 scale, Kit 03309

This kit has been around for some time and is originally a Special Armor (CMK) 2013 release that was reboxed by Revell in 2018.   I thought this model would be a unique addition to my collection.  Since its availability here in the USA is spotty, I ordered it from Hannant’s in the UK (who seem to have everything almost all the time).

I built this kit as a quick, easy project before I plunged into something more complex.

Much interesting information about the V2 (which was the first manmade object to actually go into space) is available on line.   One interesting story is how the Germans tried to use the missile tactically against the bridge over the Rhine River at Remagen.  They fired off a bunch of these missiles hoping to hit the bridge, and one even got within 400 yards.  The rest just blasted more of the local town and the German countryside.  There was a crude guidance system in these missiles, and they were essentially unstoppable once launched.  However they were by no means accurate, but still capable of inflicting serious damage where they did come down.

There are two sprues and a small decal sheet.  The 11 page instruction book is beautiful with clear drawings in full color with four color profiles for finishing.  The parts are very detailed and go together well. No filler was required anywhere.

The splinter camouflage pattern took the most time to complete.  It continues to amaze me that the Germans wasted so much time on intricate camouflage patterns. We seemed to have done rather well with simple coats of olive drab.

I used the following paints:

    Vallejo 71.019 Camo. Dark Green
    Vallejo 71.032 Golden Brown
    Vallejo  71.143 U.K. Light Stone
    Vallejo  71.251 NATO Black
    Model Master Enamel - Steel #1780

The kit includes a travel cart for the launching pad.

The Bf109E in this photo is also 1/72nd scale.  It shows just how large the V2 was.

As always, thank you for visiting my blog.  Comments are always welcome.

Tamiya M551 Sheridan U.S. Airborne Tank - Vietnam War, Kit 365, 1/35 scale

The Sheridan came about to fit the perceived need for a tank that could be air dropped.  Of course it would be nice to air drop tanks with the airborne troops, but weight is the issue.  Heavy things require large airplanes to transport them, and tanks require lots of (heavy) armor to protect them once engaged.  These two necessities work against each other.  I was in Vietnam several years before the Sheridans were deployed there.  But we had quickly learned that an RPG could ruin your whole day, and that using common chain link fencing could protect our vehicles.  I saw M113 APC crews deploying fencing around their vehicles for just that reason.  The RPG would strike the fencing, explode and spare the vehicle.  Or, that was the theory. 

Here, Tamiya has modeled a frame and fencing shield on the front of the M551.  This was an in-theater installation.  Tamiya supplies some plastic screen material for you to cut out from a pattern.  I decided to go with the Eduard Anti-RPG Wire Net #36408, which looks like cyclone fencing and not large window screen.  Some tanks, of course, did not have these installed, possibly even the tank I modeled.

Speaking of the tank I modeled, I attended the IPMS Nationals in Phoenix last year, and attendees were given a decal sheet, as usual.  The sheet we received included decals for this tank in 1/72nd and 1/48th scale.  “Arizona” was the tank of Platoon Sergeant Vega of Nogales, AZ.  (The second model on the sheet is the Spad flown by AZ notice Lt. Frank Luke,  after who Luke AFB is named.)

The Sheridan, in spite of its rather spotty active duty record has always fascinated me.  Tamiya’s last stab at the Sheridan was decades ago.  There is not one thing, I am told, in common between the two kits.  This kit is a typical new Tamiya kit.  However, I found it more involving a build than I first thought it would be.  There are lots of parts, and in several places you will need to drill .5mm, 1.0mm and 1.2mm holes, so make sure you have some small drills handy.

The figures are outstanding.  I think they are every bit as good as most resin offerings.  There are three. 

The instruction manual is superb.  Also included is a pamphlet “M551 Sheridan in Vietnam” by Specialist Doug Kibbey that is full of information on the combat deployment of the Sheridan written by someone who really knows.  This includes color profiles for the two Sheridans the marking for which are supplied in the kit.  And, finally, there is a Background Information.  All of this material is multi-lingual.

As with all the recent Tamiya releases, this kit is 100% state-of-the-art.  There is absolutely nothing to criticize. 

The gunner sitting on the hatch is a challenge, because you have to fully assemble him holding his M-16 before you can paint him.  Painting the rifle was tricky, but we do need a challenge now and then.

Here is a list of the main paints and weathering materials I used:

    Tamiya Surface Primer - Grey - spray can

    Vallejo Model Air NATO Black 71.251 - Rubber tires
    Vallejo Model Air Olive Drab 71.043 - Overall
    Vallejo Model Color Russian WWII Uniform 70.924 - Jungle Fatigues
    Vallejo Model Color U.S. Dark Green 70.893- Helmets
    Vallejo Model Air U. S. Dark Green 71.016 - Flak Jackets
    Vallejo Model Color Gun Metal Grey 70.863 - machine gun and M16

    Ammo by MIG Track Wash - A.Mig 1002
    Ammo by MIG Modelling Pigment VN Earth - A.Mig 3022

I am no color expert, and my memory of these colors is decades old.  But they looked right to me.  Besides, in the field, equipment and people get really filthy.  The tropical sun fades everything.  Whatever color the clothing and equipment was delivered in did not last that long.

 As always, thank you for visiting my blog.  Comments are always welcome.

Hasegawa Messerschmitt Bf109G-2, 1/48 scale, Kit JT29

The Kit

This is another of the “golden oldies” in my collection.  I wanted to beef up my Bf109 collection, and I remembered this kit, which I have had since it was first released in the 1990’s. 

I also have AeroMaster 48-384, Augsburg Eagles, Pt. VI, which includes some markings for a G-2 model serving on the Russian Front. 

The marking of a Bf109G-2 flown by Obst. Hermann Graf  on the Russian front in Summer/Fall of 1942

I love AeroMaster decals.  They have never let me down, but all of them are pretty old now.  Great product.  Too bad they went out of business.

The Build

The surprise to me was examining the cockpit parts.  Sorry to say, but the cockpit is only a step or two above the old Otaki kits.  Oh, well.  Full speed ahead.  I added some Eduard seatbelts and called it good.  (Luftwaffe Fighter Seatbelts, 1/48, 48290)  Ultimately I was not thrilled with them.  They are colored with brown paint with the metal being left bare.  The problem is the brown paint is easily wiped away in handling.  My favorites are still Ultracast seats with the belts molded in.

Ultimately, I decided to leave the canopy closed, so the cockpit looks fine.  Careful painting really brought out the details.

The fit of the parts is very good and the surface detail looks right on the money. 

Also, I have been experimenting with Tamiya acrylic paints, and almost any German WWII aircraft makes a good subject.  You need to mix two or more colors to get the RLM color you desire.  I will see if the effort is worth it.  My experience so far is these paints airbrush more easily than any other acrylic I have tried.

I was not able to find a formula for RLM 04 Yellow, but luckily I had some in my Model Master Acryl collection (#4771).  I used this to paint the band around the fuselage rear, the undersides of the wingtips, and the lower forward cowl.

Tamiya Mark Fit Strong works very well with these decals, and all others I have tried it with.  You need to work fast in placing the decal, as the product really softens the decal quickly.  This product really makes the decals conform to the details under them.  It may take an additional application or two on difficult spots, but the results are worth it.  This is a different formula than the regular strength.  See my blog entry in February 2017.

The Hasegawa BF109 kits may have been eclipsed by recent releases, but they are still pretty good.  I enjoyed this build, and I think that the kit still merits some consideration.

I made my own masking from thin strips of Tamiya tape and my own masking compound (Elmer's glue with food coloring.)

I used Tamiya primer from the spray can.  The yellow area is masking tape.  I added a primary coat of Tamiya flat white before I sprayed the yellow color coat.

Decal application is almost done.

Finished Model

 As always, thank you for visiting my blog.  Comments are always welcome.

Airfix P-40B Warhawk, 1/48 scale, Kit A05130

The Kit

Many 1/48 scale modelers were waiting somewhat eagerly for Airfix to release this kit after it was announced.  Prior to this kit entering the market, we had only the ancient P-40B from Monogram (accurate in outline, but lacking in cockpit detail and being cover with the hated - by some - raised panel lines) and the lamentable P-40B/C from Hobby  Craft (which had a very inaccurate outline and not much of a cockpit either).

We were not disappointed with this new Airfix release.  Recessed panel lines, which are lighter than the early “new” Airfix kits,  grace the exterior.  The very detailed cockpit and wheel wheels with canvas covers, very nicely molded landing gear (both extended  mode and retracted), and a radio set in the aft fuselage with an access door that can be left open or closed kept me from thinking of any after market items (aside from the seatbelts).

All P-40’s (at least through the E model, to my knowledge), had a ring gunsight on the engine cowl in front of the cockpit.  This detail is absent in this kit and not shown anywhere on the illustrations or plans.  I do not see how these could have been molded in plastic, so I submit Airfix just saved the modeler the frustration of fooling with this detail.  Maybe in 1/32d scale, but not i/48 scale.  My collection of aftermarket parts includes and old Waldron steel etched set of ring gunsights in 1/48 and 1/32 scale.  I frankly admit that the set in 1/48 scale is simply too small for me to deal with. 

A very complete decal sheet with markings for both a Pearl Harbor based Curtiss P-40B Warhawk and a Flying Tiger Curtiss Hawk 81-A-2. The latter being the same aircraft but painted in RAF colors and turned over the the Chinese Air Force for use by American Volunteer Group. 

I chose the Pearl Harbor markings for one of the first American aircraft to engage the Japanese in WW II.

This is a fine kit and I highly recommend it.

The Build

Tamiya Olive Drab XF-62 and Sky Grey XF-19 were  used for the basic overall colors.  These aircraft were well-maintained and therefore, I did not weather the model very much.  I did use Tamiya Weathering Master Dry Brush Effect colors for exhaust stains on the bottom and aft of the exhaust manifolds as well as metallic effects the gun barrels and pitot tube.

All in all, the build was straight forward.  I only needed some putty where the upper wing joins the fuselage and where the lower wing joins the fuselage in the rear.  And that may have been “builder’s error” and not Airfix’s fault.

The cockpit was installed stock except for some Eduard STEEL seatbelts.

I do not recall using Tamiya Color Acrylic Paint over canopy frames before, but I did here, and will probably do so in the future.  I always carefully clean the canopy with alcohol before applying the masking.  In this case, I was using a combination of Eduard canopy masks (designed for the Hobbycraft P-40B) and Tamiya tape to mask areas not covered by the Eduard masks).  I sprayed several light coats of XF-62 Olive Drab on the canopy parts (which were not attached to the model).  The pleasant surprise came when I removed the masks.  The paint stuck fast to the frame and the tape came away cleanly.  Beautiful job!  I have used a lot of Vallejo Model Air paint, but I have had problems with the Vallejo paint coming up in places with the masking tape.

The antennas are fine E Z Line elastic thread.  I obtained mine on eBay.  Using medium CA, and a bit of patience, the material is easy to work with and is somewhat forgiving of handling accidents, unlike stretched sprue.  And, it never sags.

My often messy and cluttered workbench.  Lots of interior green has been applied.

Many of the small parts have been primed in this photo.  I generally prime with Tamiya "rattle can" primers.

On this kit, I left the clerar parts off until after I painted the model.  Here the underside is about to be painted.

On the left the ejection pin mark can be seen and on the right it is mostly scraped away.  It was one of the fewplaces where an ejection pin mark got in the way.

I have taken to using Mr. Finishing Surfacer to seal up small gaps.  I apply it neatly with a small brush and use lacquer thinner on cotton buds to remove the excess.  A few coats may be required.  The end result is a neat seal and the surrounding detail is not destroyed by sanding.

As always, thank you for visiting my blog.  Comments are always welcome.