The Hawker Typhoon was a very successful RAF fighter. The early models were the “car door” model depicted by this kit. They flew many missions into France and the Low Countries attacking airfields, and all sorts of other targets on “rhubarb” missions as they were called. Pilots disliked the car door arrangement as the door hindered escape from theraircraft. The later Typhoon models were made with tear drop canopies for better visibility and easier escape should that become necessary.
My model carries the marking of a Typhoon flown by Flt. Sgt. (later Squadron Leader) K.G. “Hyphen” Taylor-Cannon of 486 Sqd. RAF, Tangmere, in December 1942. The white nose and the yellow wing stripes were a short lived marking directive that was supposed to increase visibility of the aircraft. Apparently antiaircraft gunners frequently mistook the Typhoon for an Fw190. The black stripes under the wings were part of the scheme. Later, the yellow stripes and white nose were deleted and the spaces between the black stripes were painted white.
In a recent modeling magazine, an article author commented that “I sold off all my Hasegawa kits” at some point in time. He did not say why, but I think it reasonable to infer that they no longer met his requirements as to detail, etc. Judging from the quality of the model he built and was writing abut, his standards and skills are very, very good.
However, that is not to say that there is no longer a place on the model builder’s workbench for these older Hasegawa kits. (Even Eduard is producing kits that blend Hasegawa plastic with Eduard accessories and decals in one package. And Hasegawa has been producing plastic for a number of other manufacturers also.)
A case in point is this Hawker Typhoon kit. Yes, I used aftermarket decals and an Ultracast resin seat with seatbelts, but the rest is straight out of the box.
The parts fit is good enough to require almost no putty, and most of the that was due to my failure to achieve proper fit in two places. The canopy was so clear that I decided to use the closed canopy as I could see the cockpit detail through it.
Generally, I was pleasantly surprised with the kit, as I was a few years ago when I built the Hasegawa P-47D’s, which I described at the time in this blog. There are still a few Hasegawa 1/48th scale kits in my stash, and I look forward to building them.
The surface detail is first-rate. Newer kits would include more cockpit detail, but that is available with the aftermarket should the builder so desire. The details were enough for me as I had decided to leave the canopy closed on this model.
I substituted Techmod Decals “Hawker Typhoon Mk 1b” (48045C) for the kit decals, and I selected a machine from 486 Squadron RAF piloted by Sgt. K.G. Taylor-Cannon based at Tangmere in December 1942. The decals proved very difficult to use. They are brittle and would not settle on a concave surface. In the future, I will think twice about using them.
For the first time, I used one of the Ammo by Mig products I have purchased: Enamel Wash (A.Mig 1011). I glossed the model with Vallejo Acrylic Resin Gloss Varnish (70.510) before and after I applied the decals. Then, I traced the panel lines with the Enamel Wash, waited 10 to 15 minutes, and removed it with Q-tips and a 1/4” angled brush. Frankly, the product worked better than the Tamiya Panel Line Accent Colors I have been using. I am really pleased.
When researching this project, I ran across some comments on a forum where the "experts" agreed that any model of the "Car Door" Typhoon would have to include the car door as a separate piece since they were not hinged and had to be dismounted from the aircraft to allow for the pilot to enter and exit the fighter. See the last photo below. That does not appear to be the case, does it? I have a number of photos like this in my file, and they were easy to find. What was not easy to find was information on whether this door could be jettisoned to allow the pilot to bail out of a stricken Typhoon. I bet it did, as opening the door against the slipstream might have been impossible. By the way, Hasegawa supplies and alternate canopy and pieces to display the door an the top of the canopy open.
A NOTE ON THE COLORS: I used Vallejo paints for this project. The actual paints were selected from Vallejo's publication "WWII British Aircraft Colors RAF-FAA". The dark green they called for turned out to be more like an olive drab. Then, the auto white balance on my camera seemed to make it more like a brown. I see now that Vallejo has been updating the RAF paints with new colors. I have read that the RAF dark green did at times come out more olive drab. Not surprising. When we were spot painting vehicles in the Army, I don't recall anyone running for a Federal Standard chip to make sure we had just the right shade. Suffice it to say the color is wrong, but I still like the way the model looks.
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| Some reviews said there were substantial gaps where the wings meet the fuselage. Mine had a slight gap that was solved with masking tape holding the wings in place while the cement dried. |
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| I used plastic putty (a Chinese knock-off of Crazy Putty) to mark off the camouflage pattern, because the putty makes a nice sharp line as seen on RAF aircraft. |
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| That is a Eduard Zoom instrument panel. They are very nice, but add to the cost of the project. |
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| Admittedly, not up to contemporary standards from Tamiya or Eduard, but I submit the detail is adequate, particularly when supplemented with an Ultracast seat. |
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| This wash and the brushes I used did a very nice job on accenting the panel lines and helping to give the surface a used look. The paint is labeled "enamel" but it smells more like oil paint. |
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| Public domain photo. |
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